Model 19 Foams

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Originally Posted by voice of the theater

I'd like to thank a couple people for their input on this thread for example......

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VOT, Your welcome ! They were installed for diffraction (Foam Inserts) AFAIK.The inserts help keep the horn from reflecting (Sound Waves) off the sides of the cabinets that protrude past the horn IME.

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Originally Posted by GM

and don't have any long distance service for returning calls.

Actually, arguably better in some ways due to ongoing weight loss/increased exercise, but 'oldtimers', arthritis is advancing at a pretty good clip now. :(

GM

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OK GM, Sounds good ! I have plenty of long distance, so I can make the calls.We can pick times of the day generally to call that would be good for you, and I will call then.Just let me know.Have you had any time at all for those indoor Altec projects ?


Regards ~ AB

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Originally Posted by GM

Unless they are using much denser foam and assuming it's open cell same as the original, it will only help to quell any theoretically unwanted extreme HF mouth reflections up where only young folks have a hope of hearing its subtle improvement, so in the scheme of things they are doing you a favor SQ wise and what Altec should have done originally IME.

If their foam is dense enough though, it will affect way off axis response way up high, but this is normally a moot point since their designed in rising on axis response requires toeing them in for best overall performance.

Frankly, as thin in thickness as this protuberance must be, I'd be surprised if there's any measurable difference even with 24 dB/octave resolution which is well above a typical human's ~6 dB/octave perception.

GM

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Originally Posted by Altec Best

VOT, Your welcome ! They were installed for diffraction (Foam Inserts) AFAIK.The inserts help keep the horn from reflecting (Sound Waves) off the sides of the cabinets that protrude past the horn IME.

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Thanks everyone--I guess if the only potential drawback from the foam blocking part of the horn opening is that "it will affect way off axis response way up high, but this is normally a moot point since their designed in rising on axis response requires toeing them in for best overall performance." I'm going to go with what seems to be the general consensus and leave them the way they are. I angle/point them in anyways toward the center seat in the room so they're facing the center of the couch in the room where I have them set up so no one listening to them is ever very far off axis/the sweet spot...... The foams came with the Model 19's when I bought them used and the seller included paperwork with the speakers including a print out of an email/receipt from the Darsts. I definitely hear an improvement listening to the speakers with the foams installed compared to listening to them without the foams, but when I noticed the other day that the foams blocked the open part of the horn by about three quarters of an inch on the left and right sides of the horn, I thought that maybe trimming them back 3/4 of an inch on both sides to make them flush with the open part of the horn might make them sound even better since it looked to be pretty apparent that they were blocking sound from the throat at the very outer left and right edges of the horns. I've always (since my first stereo back in the 70's) been somewhat preoccupied with ways to make my stereo system sound better. I guess in this case the old saying applies "if it ain't broke, don't fix it".....

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Originally Posted by GM

don't have any long distance service for returning calls.

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Mr. M, are you familiar with Gmail? Free long distance to Canada and the States from anywhere that has internet. I was able to keep in touch with my office from Punta Cana last year. As long as your computer has speakers and a mike you're good to go.

Greets!

No, I haven't tried to stay abreast of all the features/fads that come and go. I still have my headset from the free Skype? of a decade+ ago though. Guess it will work. Pit Hinder pointed me to some extremely low cost LD services earlier this year, but I've apparently lost all the info in the meltdown and haven't been able to spend hardly any time on the computer for doing anything much beyond paying bills and doing tools, materials, building codes, etc. research for all the house, etc. repairs I'm now stuck with.

Anyway, appreciate the info and will scope it out eventually.

GM

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Free long distance

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have a friend that lives somewhat 'out of town'.

less than 50 miles, yet,

he says that he is the only person in his telephone exchange.

and every call is long distance.

got his no-code licence and became a ham -

American Radio Relay League | ARRL - The national association for AMATEUR RADIO

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Originally Posted by GM

Greets!

No, I haven't tried to stay abreast of all the features/fads that come and go. I still have my headset from the free Skype? of a decade+ ago though. Guess it will work. Pit Hinder pointed me to some extremely low cost LD services earlier this year, but I've apparently lost all the info in the meltdown and haven't been able to spend hardly any time on the computer for doing anything much beyond paying bills and doing tools, materials, building codes, etc. research for all the house, etc. repairs I'm now stuck with.

Anyway, appreciate the info and will scope it out eventually.

GM

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GM, sounds like you have bit off a big chunk with the house repairs. If I can help you out in any way, let me know, I do this kind of stuff for a living.
FWIW, you can't do any worse, though, than a recent kitchen remodel I worked on, the owner and his brother had removed 14' of the center bearing wall. They assured me it was OK because they asked someone at Menard's and were given the "go-ahead". When I arrived there, the ceiling had only deflected 3/4", largely due to the type of truss used for the roof. A conventional truss or older style ceiling joists would have resulted in a collapse.

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Originally Posted by westend9

the owner and his brother had removed 14' of the center bearing wall. They assured me it was OK because they asked someone at Menard's and were given the "go-ahead".

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I would never, ever, remove any part of a bearing wall without supporting it in someway first! It is called "BEARING" for a reason, as it is holding up everything above it ! Got to be careful about some of those Folks at Home Depot,Lowes,Menards,etc.... Every time I go there I can't even get decent directions to the rest room,etc,and they work there ! ;) I've come to the realization about them places "You Are On Your Own" !!!

You just "NEVER" remove bearing walls without supporting them before removing any part of one ! I'm sure many a people been buried doing that in the past. :D

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Originally Posted by Altec Best

I would never, ever, remove any part of a bearing wall without supporting it in someway first! It is called "BEARING" for a reason, as it is holding up everything above it ! Got to be careful about some of those Folks at Home Depot,Lowes,Menards,etc.... Every time I go there I can't even get decent directions to the rest room,etc,and they work there ! ;) I've come to the realization about them places "You Are On Your Own" !!!

You just "NEVER" remove bearing walls without supporting them before removing any part of one ! I'm sure many a people been buried doing that in the past. :D

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I've been in the construction business, off and on, for my whole life (Dad used to let me hold the floor joist ends on the foundation before I could walk) and you can't believe some of the things I've seen. Left to their own devices, some homeowners know just enough to make a disaster.
The big-box stores in this area are attracting better help as the construction industry collapse continues. I run into Master Electricians, Journeyman Plumbers, and other skilled tradesman working the floor in these stores. Of course, it's hit-and-miss if you're going to run into one of these folk and, if they're skilled, they won't be giving out advice or plans on load-bearing structure without seeing the project.
If the recent heatwave continues along in my area, I just might pack up the truck and head for Georgia to give GM a hand. At least the ride down would be cool with the truck AC going. :)

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Originally Posted by westend9

The big-box stores in this area are attracting better help as the construction industry collapse continues. I run into Master Electricians, Journeyman Plumbers, and other skilled tradesman working the floor in these stores. Of course, it's hit-and-miss

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In my area, most of the construction guys I know (Friends) are working and very busy.Most of the people in my area working at the Box stores are young, just out of high school for the most part, not all of course.Depends on what department you are in too etc...

I only go there anymore for convenience of the most generic of products.But for quality products I use Heath lumber a 100 year old + Lumber Yard that has the quality lumber I'm looking for.And as an added bonus they are right across the street from Graingers.

This is where I bought my Baltic Birch for my project ( Heath).I asked for it at the Home Depot, even at the Pro desk.The guy working the counter that day didn't know what it was or how to order any of it.Home Depot offers cheaper prices though but there stuff is mostly junk.You have to go through a whole pile of 2x4's to get a couple straight ones. :mad:

I'm not a big fan of Home Depot. Personally I think Lowes is the better of the 2,never been to a Menard's.

Menards is where they sell the stuff that wouldn't sell at the other 2 stores. : (